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Sewing the Nikko Top by True Bias

Jeanique holding up the true bias pattern

Welcome Jeanique!
Jeanique, or ‘CWTCH’ on social media, is our new guest blogger. As a sewist and overall extremely talented maker, we can’t wait to see what she comes up with! And she’s here to take us along on her sewing journeys, starting with sewing the Nikko top…

Sewing Through Colder Days

Pattern: Nikko top by True Bias
Fabric: Family Fabrics – Jersey – Watercolor Mahogany Cherry
95% Cotton 5% Lycra at Cross and Woods

No matter how much I love swishy summer dresses with all the frills you can get, nothing beats layer season. I just love getting dressed for the colder weather and turtlenecks are one of my most favorite items, I know, they’re not for everyone, but they really make me feel elegant and grown up 😉

So I was really pleased to have a chance to try the Nikko top and dress by True Bias, just what I needed for my autumn/winter wardrobe! And when the Cross and Woods ladies updated their shop with the latest Family Fabrics I just KNEW I had to make my top in the watercolor cherry blossom.

Jeanique posing fiercely with her finished top in front of a autumnal coloured hedge

Fabric

Detail close up of family fabrics against black hinterland dress

When the fabric came in it was even better than I expected it to be. The fabric has just the right amount of stretch for this top. It’s firm and shapes back great. I love the brightness of the colors, even after washing they still hold great. The warm tones just fill my with autumnly bliss, don’t get me wrong, I hate the wet, love the red. I can’t WAIT to sew this up!


Sewing Pattern

Lay out of paper pattern

The pattern has 4 views:

A mock turtleneck top with or without sleeves, or a mock turtleneck dress with or without sleeves. Although the sleeveless views (A & D) are cut to resemble a racerback, you can still wear them with a regular bra, which is a big plus for me. The dress views, views C and D are straighter through the waist and hip, extending to the ankle, with knee-length side slits to complete the dress.

“Confession: This is the first time I’ve ever used a paper pattern

I don’t know why, but it always felt like so much work, because I started sewing last year with the use of digital patterns (the pattern is also available in pdf) I never considered using paper patterns.

I must say, although I thought it would be much more work, it wasn’t really. I loved that I didn’t have to tape pages together, I just laid the pattern paper and pattern on my floor, traced the size I needed with a tracing wheel (it was in a box I found in a thrift store), cut it out with a rotary cutter (yes you want that) and cut out the fabric. Easy Peasy.

“It’s a delicious fast and easy sew, especially when you use a serger like me.”

Sewing

Close up fabric on the serger

Even though you can sew this perfectly on just a regular sewing machine (as long as yours can do a zig zag stitch, you’re fine!), it is especially super easy when you have the opportunity to use a serger like me.

I think I had it finished in an hour. I skipped the clear elastics (seam stabilizer) in the shoulder seams, simply because I didn’t have any, it’s meant to stabilize your seams and prevent it from stretching out, so you really would not want to skip this and add it as stated in the pattern. You can find a great tutorial on how to use it here.

I finished my hems with a twin needle on my sewing machine, because I love that so much better than a zigzag stitch, if you’ve never tried it you might want to try it out, it’s not as hard as it seems and you get a lovely finish.


Fitting

Jeanique modeling top from the back

I made a size 10 based on my chest measurements, but I have a large bust compared to my waist. The best thing about this pattern is that both front and back pieces are curved in the waistline. So even though my waist is a size 8 the top still nicely hugs my body without being it too tight around my bust.
Speaking about too tight: the neck part is perfect, not too loose, not too tight.

Jeanique modeling the nikko top while holding black umbrella

I didn’t alter anything on the pattern and I don’t think it needs any fitting alterations, I love the sleeve length, and the general length of the top is perfect for me. I’m a big fan of tucking it in in a high waist pants (Check out the Lander pant by True Bias for example, still on my to-do list) or skirt (it would be amazing with a lush linen Estuary skirt by Sew Liberated) but I can see it work perfectly over a skinny jeans. And how about layering it under a sleeveless dress like I did with my hacked v-neck Hinterland Dress by Sew Liberated?

All in all

The pattern instructions are very clear, and if you have a serger or am used to sew with knit fabrics this pattern won’t be too hard for you to follow, I’m planning to make a lot more, that’s for sure 😉


Jeanique (*85) is always busy making something. She loves to learn new skills and wants to try all crafts at least once. She started sewing in 2019 and hasn’t stopped since.
She learned a lot when pattern testing for indie-pattern makers. As a content creator for a big indie-pattern company, she was able to combine her passion for photography and home made garments. As a blogger for Cross & Woods, Jeanique hopes to inspire (novice) sewists to create a me-made wardrobe of their own.

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